From time to time, one finds a banded pigeon who, for whatever reason, seems unable to care for himself or herself.
What to do?
First, it’s important to remember that there are more than 300 wild species of pigeons and doves (the two terms are somewhat interchangeable) that range in size from that of a large sparrow to that of a large pheasant. Wild pigeons and doves are distributed worldwide. A handful of these have been domesticated.
Of those, one, the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia), also called the Rock Dove (and often just “pigeon”), is, in its domestic form, one of the world’s most widely distributed and best known bird species. It is found in most towns and cities around the world.
The domesticated, or feral, Rock Pigeon comes in a variety of colors and patterns. However, in shape and size, there is relatively little variation. Adult birds weigh around one-half to two-thirds of a pound (238-302 grams).
But, pigeons have long been selectively bred by hobbyists, or “fanciers,” to create a highly variable number of “breeds” or “strains” that, although all the same species, can, in some instances, be very different in appearance. Some are almost grotesque in shape, have strange plumage characteristics, exaggerated poses, or facial carbuncles. They have a variety of color patterns, all involving various shades of black, dark gray, white, or reddish brown, often with iridescent shine on the sides of the necks (absent or nearly so if the neck is white).
Because these various “fancy” breeds are so highly domesticated, they may be very dependent on human care—and yet able to fly. And, while even “fancies” normally have good homing instincts, it is common for one to become lost or disoriented. Often, they are very used to people and to being handled, and are easily picked up. They are typically very vulnerable to predation by hawks, cats, or other predatory animals, or may be unable to find food, always having had it provided in a dish.
Because fanciers and hobbyists like to keep track of their birds, they put a band, or “ring,” on the foot.
How do I read the band, and what does it tell me?
The band typically contains information that may not be as informative as we would like. Normally, there are just the initials of a club or pigeon fancier’s organization to which the bird’s original owner belongs.
Fancy pigeons are usually banded when they’re just nestlings (or “squabs”) with a “closed ring” that is a complete circle and slips onto the foot but won’t fall off once the foot grows to adult size. Of course, the bird may subsequently change hands (being sold, traded, or gifted). Unless another band is added (an “open” band that can be closed around the now-grown foot, thus showing where the two ends come together), the closed band has information that pertains to the original owner—not necessarily to the current owner.
The band typically has a series of letters that indicate the name of the original owner’s club affiliation. For example, AU stands for American Racing Pigeon Union Organization; FTCNA is Flying Tipplers Club of North America; CU is Canadian Pigeon Union; and NPA is National Pigeon Association.
There may be a single number, which indicates band size. There is also a date, which may be two numbers (like 15, meaning the bird hatched in the year 2015) or four numbers indicating a relatively recent year (2015, which also means the bird hatched in 2015).
There may be coded letters which reflect an alphabetical sequence, as well as a serial number, usually four figures, which tells the owner exactly which bird it is.
Bands may be either metal or plastic. The owner’s name or contact information may also occur, although if so, normally on a supplementary band, or on the inside of the band (where, of course, it is not visible without removing the band). This is definitely not recommended if the bird is alive, and not possible with a “closed” band without serious injury to the bird. Leave it alone.
At the very least, one normally sees the club initials, year of hatching, and individual serial number.
Many people think there is, or should be, a central registry of all numbers. However, there is no such registry. But, it is now relatively easy to track down ownership of a banded lost bird by using the internet. Find the initials of the club and type them into your search engine along with the word “pigeon,” or “pigeon found,” or “banded pigeon,” and so on. Such searches will usually work to get you started finding the owner.
However, your query via the “contact us” part of the club’s website does not always produce a timely response. If that’s the case, keep trying. Or, you could contact local wildlife rehabilitators to see if any have a list of contacts for such birds. Also, it may be appropriate to ask around your neighborhood to find out if anyone keeps fancy pigeons.
Homing and racing pigeons are sometimes found exhausted or thin, but with no physical trauma. Pigeon fanciers often urge simply getting the birds back into shape (see below) and releasing them. They are, after all, “homing” pigeons, and should thus be able to find their way back home after a few days of rest and food. If you choose this route, do not try to attach a message to the bird.
Are all pigeons owned?
Not all banded pigeons are owned. There are at least half a dozen native wild pigeon and dove species in North America, and they may be banded with a government band. This band is silver-colored aluminum (for light weight), contains one long number, and, in fine print, has some sort of message to contact the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Such bands are never closed bands, are not plastic, and birds wearing them who are found helpless must be turned over to a licensed wildlife rehabilitation center as quickly as possible. (It is unlikely, though, that you will find such a bird, and they are rarely tame.)
How do I care for the bird in the meantime?
Domestic fancy pigeons are obligate gramnivores and thus eat seeds. They like larger seeds, such as oats (and groats) and dried (or fresh) corn, dried peas, shelled sunflower seeds, and even bird seed used in wild bird feeders. They need grit (small bits of gravel) but can do without it temporarily as you track down the owner or get the bird back into shape for release.
Water should be provided in a shallow bowl, but not too shallow (at least an inch or so deep). Pigeons drink by sucking the water up with a pumping motion of their necks, unlike other birds who tip their heads back and swallow.
The rescued bird may not be used to food as you’ve provided it, but if you peck at the food with your forefinger (as you would type one-fingered on a keyboard with a sharp, short, up-and-down motion, scattering seed), you can entice a reluctant pigeon to eat. Similarly, splashing the water lets the bird know that it is there. Be sure to have disposable paper under the bird (paper towel works well, a couple of layers thick), and take notice by the droppings whether the bird is eating (ideally rather copious, drying white with dark centers, and not too wet; green and wet might indicate some further problems beyond our scope to address here).
How can I tell if the bird is starving?
All pigeons and other strong-flying birds have a well-developed “keel” bone down the center of the chest, which you can gently feel. It is a bit like a ridge. To either side are the large pectoral flight muscles (the “white breast meat” of cooked poultry).
In a bird of healthy weight, you should be able to feel the solid, rounded contours of those muscles on either side, like a shallow “V” or “U” shape. If it is an acute “V” shape (sort of sunken on either side of the “blade” of the “keel” bone), the bird is emaciated and in need of speedy attention. Feed immediately and include some electrolytes in the water. Electrolytes can be obtained in a bottle at the drug store or pharmacy, and are also contained in sports drinks, such as Gatorade. Even non-diet cola allowed to go flat can help in an emergency. Keep such a bird warm, but not overheated.
Dry, flaky skin may indicate dehydration. A very slender eye-dropper, ideally with a straight (not bulbous) tip, can be used to insert the first bit of water and electrolytes. However, the tip has to be pushed back onto the opening at the back of the tongue (the “windpipe”) to avoid choking and subsequent complications—so this requires a deft, preferably experienced, administrator with a gentle touch.
Are there other things I can do?
It is beyond our scope here to tell you how to care for an injured or otherwise seriously compromised bird (beyond suggesting appropriate veterinary care when available), but here is a good source of information on how to care for a found pigeon, banded or otherwise, needing immediate first-aid medical attention. It is applicable to other bird species, too!
What is the ethical thing to do?
Some animal protectionists are reluctant to return a banded owned pigeon because they oppose the hobby of keeping pigeons, or racing them, or raising them for meat.
It is the welfare of the bird that is most important to us. Legal considerations aside, in balance, a pigeon is better off with flock-mates, kept by a knowledgeable hobbyist, rather than kept caged, confined, or turned over to a well-meaning (but inexperienced) caregiver. Most pigeon fanciers will allow you to tour their facilities and discuss issues of husbandry and care.
In an imperfect world—all being equal—returning the bird is what is best for the bird.
